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CHICAGO 

M. A.Donohue &. Company 

PUBLISHERS 


Invented. Written and Illustrated 


ADELIA BELLE BEARD 


The Childrens 



































































































4 ^ ^ 



i 19/5 


©CI.A;j951 78 

%o / 


I 








































"1 


FOREWORD TO MOTHERS 

I NTRODUCING THE CHILDREN’S KRAFTSHOP. 

We have endeavored to open a new and useful field of simple handi¬ 
crafts for little folk, giving them an original line of toys and a new line 
of materials with which to make them. We hope the children will have 
a great deal of pleasure in making toys of such things as empty spools, 
sticks of kindling wood, wooden clothespins, natural twigs, old envelopes 
and newspapers, and in this way to encourage resourcefulness, originality, 
inventiveness, and the power to do with supplies at hand. 

Everything described in the book has been invented by the author, 
and made by such practical and simple methods that a child’s mind can grasp 
them, and a child’s hands be easily trained to manufacture the articles. 























































Making Wind Toys 


By Adelia Belle Beard 


One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing 


T WAS the windy weather that suggested the new toys to the children. “Suppose 
we try pinwheels,” said Polly. “Not the old kind on sticks that we used to make, 
but we can have them different somehow, and this wind will make them spin like 
mad. Donald, I just must have pinwheels.” 

Polly’s enthusiasm inspired Donald. “We can make a windmill with a pinwheel 
for the big wheel,” he said. 

“Oh, yes,” chimed in Polly. “You do that, and I will make a string of pinwheels 
that will not need sticks, or pins either. What shall we make them of?” 

“Stiff writing paper is the best,” replied Donald. “Here is our best pad,” he 
added, taking from the table drawer a large pad of good quality writing paper. “Do 
you think we ought to use it?” 

“Why not?” said Polly. “Mother says we are 
learning lots of things in our Kraft Shop.” 

Donald had no further scruples about using the 
paper, though he was careful not to waste it. “I am going 
to make the tower for my windmill of this heavy manila 
wrapping paper,” he announced. “It is nice and smooth 
and plenty strong and stiff enough.” 

“I would,” Polly answered absently, as she folded 
and slashed the squares for her pinwheels. “I’ll have 
them graduated,” she continued, thinking of her own 
work; “first a large wheel, then a smaller, then a smaller 

one still, and the last shall he smallest of all.” (Figures.) The way the thread goes through 


(Figure 4.) The string of pinwheels 





















Making Wind Toys 



For her largest wheel Polly cut a square of writing paper, which measured 
exactly six inches along each edge. The next she cut five and a half inches square, 
the next four and a half inches square and the smallest three and a half inches square. 
Then she placed her ruler across the largest square diagonally from the upper right- 
hand corner to the lower left-hand corner and ran her pencil along its edge. This 
gave her a diagonal pencil line from corner to corner on her square. Again she placed 
her ruler across the square, this time from the upper left-hand corner to the lower 
right-hand corner, and drew a line along its edge, dividing her square into four equal 
triangles. After this she drew the same kind of lines on the three other squares. 
With her scissors she cut slashes along each line on each of the squares to within 
three-quarters of an inch of the center. (Figure 1.) 

Lifting the upper left-hand point of the large square (A, Figure 1), she brought 
it to, and overlapped, the center of the square (A, Figure 2), curving, not sharply 
bending the paper. The point B she brought also to the center, overlapping the point 
A. She did the same with C and D, C overlapping B and D overlapping C. When 
all the four points met at the center Polly ran a large needle, threaded with a long, 
soft, white cotton string, through the center of the wheel at the back and out through 
the overlapping points in front, taking care that the needle passed through every point. 
Then she drew the needle up until the back of the pinwheel rested against a knot 
which was tied about six inches from the end of the string and, allowing almost one 
inch of string for the wheel to turn on, she tied another knot in front of the wheel, to 

hold it. Between the two knots the wheel could whirl, but could not move out of place. 

Six inches above the last knot she made another knot and then strung the next 
largest pinwheel on the string and fastened with a second knot in the same manner 
as the first wheel. In this way all four were put on the string, each six inches from 
its neighbor, and then there remained half a yard or more of free string above the 
(Figures 1 and 2 .) First steps in making pinwheeis j^st wheel. On the free end of the String Polly fastened a small square of pasteboard 

by pushing the needle through the center of the square and tying a large knot at the extreme end of the string to keep the 

pasteboard from slipping off. (Figure 4.) 

“The wind can’t pull the string through my fingers when I hold it by this pasteboard square,” she said, and almost 
before the last knot was tied Polly was at the window. “Come quick, Donald, I am going to try my pinwheeis,” she cried, 
throwing up the sash and putting out the hand that held the end of her string. 
















Making Wind Toys 


7 


Donald dropped his windmill and gained the window at 
a bound, as anxious as Polly to see the result of her experiment. 
Immediately the wind caught the string of pinwheels, lifted it 
out straight and sent each wheel whirling at a great rate. 

“How they do go!” Donald exclaimed. “Now come 
and help finish the windmill. You make the wheel while I get 
the tower in shape.” 

“All right,” said Polly cheerfully. “How big shall I 
make the wheel?” 

“About six and one-half inches square.” 

Donald made the tower for his windmill all in one piece. 

(Figure. 5) He first de¬ 
cided upon the height 
and width, then drew 
four connecting ob¬ 
long panels for the 
four sides. Each of 
these panels he made 
ten inches high and 


4-inctieS 




(Figure 5.) Donald made the tower all in one piece 


(Figure 6.) It looks like a real windmill 


four inches wide. For the peaked roof he drew four more panels, one above 
each of the side panels. These he made four inches high and four inches wide, 
just the width of the side panels. Exactly at the middle of each top line of each 
roof panel he made a dot with his pencil, then drew slanting lines 
from the ends of the base of each roof panel to the dot at the top. 
This gave four points for the roof. (Figure 5.) 

* The laps, or feet, for the tower to stand on, Donald made by 

drawing a horizontal line just one inch below the lower edges of the 
side panels and bringing the side lines down to meet it. The bend- 
over, attached to the fourth panel, which holds the tower together, 
he made two inches wide and exactly the length of the side panels. 

This finished the drawing and Donald proceeded to cut it out. 
He cut along the slanting lines of the second and fourth points of 













































<s 


Making Wind To ys 



(Figure 7.) The wind wagon sails like a ship 


the roof, but on the first and third points he left bendovers, as shown in 
Figure 5, simply cutting off some of the top of the two squares to make the 
bendov^ers fit under the other two points. Just two inches below the top 
line and two inches from each side line of the second and fourth side panel 
Donald punctured two small holes. (A and B, Figure 5.) These were for 
the wheel rod. He then slashed the lines which separated the feet at the 
bottom of the side panels and bent the tower in shape according to the 
dotted lines in Figure 5. The feet he bent out, the roof he bent in, the sides 
he bent in, and each bend he creased sharply to give a smooth, even edge. 
With good glue he fastened the bendovers of the roof to the under side of 
the cut-out points; then he glued the side bendover to the outside of the first 
panel and his tower was finished. 

Polly had completed the wheel for the mill, making it as she did her 
pinwheels, with this difference: instead of a string to hold the wheel together 
she used a strong pin and put it through from the front, piercing the laps 
before running it through the center of the wheel. 

“Are the little holes to hold the stick for the wheel, Donald?” she 

inquired. 

“Yes; I wish you would find me a good stick, Polly, while I tack the 
feet of the tower to a piece of board.” 

Donald used two large-headed carpet tacks for each foot, and, to 
prevent the sharp edges of the heads from tearing the paper, he cut little 


rounds from an old kid glove and pushed one round up on each tack before tacking the tower to the board. 


“Will this do?” asked Polly, holding up the slender handle of an old paint brush. 
“Just the thing,” said Donald, pushing the pointed end of the stick into the hole 
A in the front of the tower and out through the hole B at the back. 

Donald forced the point of the pin that held the wheel into the blunt end of the 
wheel rod which extended out one inch beyond the hole A at the front of the tower. 
Then, to hold the rod at the back he pushed a cork onto its pointed end. 

“Now for a wind wagon!” cried Donald. 

“Won’t a box do for the wagon part?” Polly asked, “and—” 

“Spools for wheels,” broke in Donald. 



(Figure 8.) This is the way Polly fastened 
the wheels on the wind wagon 


















































































Making Wind Toys 


9 





A 


A 


A 


A 

H 



“ Hatpins for axles,” added Polly. 

“ Four wheels and corks between to keep them apart,” said 
Donald. 

“ I am going to use this pasteboard letter-paper box,” said Polly. 

“Well, tell me how wide and how long it is, so that I can make 
the sails to fit.” 

Polly measured the box. “It is a little over six and one-half 
inches long, five inches wide and one inch and a half deep,” she 
announced. 

“Be sure your spools are all the same size,” Donald said. 

Polly begged two hatpins of her mother. One was long, the 
other short. The shortest was just the right length for her axle, so, 
using a pair of nippers, she broke the longer pin off at the point to 
match the short one. Then she pushed one pin in on one side of the 
box a quarter of an inch from the edge and one inch and a quarter from 
the end. On this pin, inside of .the box, she strung a large spool, then 
a small cork, then another large spool and finally pushed the point of 
the pin through the other side of the box exactly opposite to where it 
entered the first side. On the point of the pin she stuck a small cork for a hub. The round head of the pin answered for 
the other hub. (Figure 8.) The other two spool wheels were adjusted in the same manner and the last pin was inserted 
in the box the same distance from the back end and edge as the first pin was from the front end and edge. 

Donald cut both of his sails like Figure 9, making them eight inches wide at the bottom, four inches wide at the top 
and six and one-quarter inches high. He drew a line directly through the middle of each sail from top to bottom, and on 
this line he cut four small points at equal distances apart for openings to admit the masts. He made two braces at the 
bottom of each sail, four inches apart, to hold them steady. (C and D, Figure 9.) Each brace is half an inch wide, half 
an inch high, and has a lap at the bottom one inch long. 

When the sails were ready he erected his masts. These were slender, straight twigs, nine inches long, sharpened 
to a point at each end. The front mast he placed half an inch from the front edge of the wagon, the back mast one inch 
and a half from the back edge of the wagon, and both directly on a line drawn lengthwise through the center of the box. 
Donald first punctured small holes in the box at these points, then forcing a half-inch cork up one inch on the lower end 
of the front mast (E, Figure 10), he covered the bottom of the cork with glue, and inserted the end of the mast in the hole 
at the front of the box where it was a tight fit. 



(Figure 9.) Donald made the two sails like this 




Figure 10. A 
twig for a mast 


















10 


Making Wind Toys 


When he had pushed the mast down until the glue on the cork held it fast, he covered the top of another cork with 
glue (F, Figure 10), and forced the last cork up on the mast from the under side of the wagon until it stuck to the top. 
When the glue dried the mast was firm and steady. 

The sail Donald slipped onto the mast from the top, running the mast in and out of the holes, as shown in Figure 
7. He bent the laps back at the dotted lines and glued them to the top of the box. Then to make the sail still more 
secure he pasted oblongs of paper over the masts where they ran through the sails at the back. The dotted inclosures, 
G and H, show the positions of the oblongs on the sail. 

When the second mast and sail were erected and adjusted in the same way as the first, Donald cut two narrow 
strips of blue tissue paper, four and a half inches long, for pennants. (Figure 7.) 

“She is done now,” said Donald. 





Making an Automobile 

By Adelia Belle Beard 


One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing 


ONALD,” said Polly, “don’t you think we could make a cunning little automobile if we tried ever so hard?’ 
“Y-e-s, we might if we could manage the wheels. They must be heavy and turn easily. It won’t be a real auto 
unless it can go whizzing.” 



11 


|TvveTiTedLT2>/ 
A eo-v- i 































































12 


Making an Automobile 



“Spools, spools!” she cried joyfully. “They will go as fast as lightning. See?” and jumping up she seized her 
workbasket, turned it upside down, found an empty spool, then dropped on her knees and sent the spool rolling across 
the hardwood floor. 

“Spools are all right,” said Donald. “Now, can we make our motor car?” 

“Well, here is the bristleboard, but I should think it would be best to make a paper pattern first, then we can alter 
it as much as we like. Donald, do you remember just how an automobile looks?” Polly inquired, with a giggle, for 
















































Making an Automobile 


13 


Donald s hobby was to know all about automobiles, and he was 
suie he could drive one as well as an experienced chauffeur if he 
had the opportunity. 

Donald disdained a reply. “Where is the brown wrapping 
paper for the patterns? Oh, here it is,” he said. “Now we will 
begin. Get the very largest spools you can find, Polly; two will be 
enough, but they must be the same size. Yes, these will do.” 

The spools Polly selected were two inches high, an inch and 
a quarter across the ends and had quite slender shafts. 

“But, after all,” objected Polly, “the spools don’t look like 
auto wheels.” 

*^That doesn’t matter; we will put the spools under the car 
and make show wheels for the outside. No one will notice, when 
we speed the car, that her outside wheels are not turning, They’ll 
appear to be.” 

“Then what shall we use for show wheels?” 

“Pill boxes will do. Look them up, Polly, while I make the 
auto frame to hold the spools. And, Polly,” he called, as she was 
leaving the room, “ bring up some of those round, slender, little 
sticks I saw in the kitchen, will you? 

“I guess you mean skewers. Jane uses them to pin meat together with. She got them from the butcher boy.” 

“Whatever they are, I want them for axles.” 

While Polly was gone Donald planned his auto frame, making it first of the wrapping paper, and without very accu¬ 
rate measurements. When she came back with the pill boxes and skewers, Donald slipped each of his two spools onto a 
skewer, fitted the skewer under the frame, rolled the frame on the table, and found his scheme would work. Then he 
took his pattern apart and spread it out in front of him. 

“Queer looking thing, isn’t it?” remarked Polly. “Shall I draw it on the bristolboard and make it more exact?” 

“Do,” said Donald, “and be sure you get both sides precisely alike and both ends precisely alike, else it won’t 
balance.” 

Polly nodded. “Pll begin with the oblong in the middle; that’s the floor, I suppose, then draw the sides and ends 
to fit.” So she fell to work while Donald perfected his pattern for the body of the car. 

The center oblong Polly made seven and one-quarter inches long and two and three-quarters inches wide. (Fig. 1.) 

“Be sure you make the sides and ends at right angles to one another,” cautioned Donald. 

“Yes, dear,” said Polly, and she proceeded to draw the sides, making long oblongs one and one-half inches wide on 
either side of the large oblong, and for the ends she drew oblongs one and one-eighth inches wide across the entire width 



of the three long oblongs. 


“That simplifies things,” she explained, as she extended the side lines of the large oblong 






























14 


Making an Automobile 


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Making an Automobile 


15 


across the end oblongs. “Now I can cut it down where it needs cutting without losing the large proportions.” 

hive-eighths of an inch from the outer edge of each of the sides she drew a horizontal line for the steps, (higure 1.) 
1 his line is three and three-quarters inches long. It begins just one and three-quarters inches from one end of the side 
and ends one and three-quarters inches from the other end. Then Polly drew the short vertical lines from the edge to 
meet the ends of the horizontal line, which gave her the end of the steps. On either side of each step she drew an axle 
guard three-eighths of an inch high, with a base half 
an inch wide and top an inch and a quarter wide. 

“Now I will make the bend-over and the catch,” she 
said. 

“That is a good name for it,” said Donald. 

“ Half an inch will be wide enough for the ‘bend-over,’ 
and make the catch one-quarter of an inch wide after 
you have allowed a little space between it and the 
bend-over.” 

“How much space?” inquired Polly. 

“ One-sixteenth of an inch will be wide enough, 
and don’t make the catch quite as long as the bend- 
over. Cut a little off at each end. (Figure 1.) Be 
careful about the slits in the ends of the frame, Polly. 

They must be just half an inch from each edge, be¬ 
cause the bend-over is half an inch wide, and since 
you have made the necks of the catches half an inch 
wide the slits must be a little longer.” 

“What are the slits on the steps for?” 

“They are to hold the mud guards. Make 
them about three-eighths of an inch long and put a 
slit half an inch from end of each step.” 

“That’s explicit,” commented Polly. “Shall I 

cut the frame out now?” 

“Better first go over the lines you are to cut 
and make them quite heavy; then dot the lines to be 
bent, so that you won’t spoil it by cutting along the 
wrong lines.” 

“Good advice; Til do that.” 

“When cut out the auto frame looked like 

Figure 1. 











































16 


Making an Automobile 


“1 shall use my small scissors to cut the slits, Donald,” Polly 
said. “The knife is so apt to slip.” 

Before bending the frame into shape Polly scored the dotted 
lines by drawing the blade of her knife lightly along their entire 
^ length, using a rule to keep the knife on the line. When the sides, 
ends and bend-overs were bent down Polly folded the ends of each 
catch inward, then lapped the bend-overs outside the ends, inserted 
each catch in its own particular slit, opened out the catches, and 
the ends and sides were held firmly and evenly in place. The 
catch A was put through the slit A, catch B through slit B, C 
through C and D through D. (Figure 1.) Then Polly bent the steps up to stand out at right angles from the sides. “I 
am ready for the spools,” she announced. 

“You will have to sharpen the blunt ends of these skewers, then,” said Donald, “and cut them off if they are too 
long. Three and one-half inches will be just about the right length.” 

When she had cut her axles the proper length and sharpened the ends, Polly punctured a very small hole in each 
axle guard, as shown in Figure 1. Then, from the inside, she pushed one end of an axle through the hole in one axle 
guard, slipped a spool on the axle and forced the other end of the axle through the hole in the opposite axle guard. The 
auto frame upside down (Figure 2) shows how this is done. 

“Now for the hub to keep the axle in place,” she reflected. “I know,” and with a spring she was up and off to 
rummage in her treasure box, coming back triumphantly with several small corks. 

“See, Donald,” she said, screwing the 
“ It holds splendidly, and the spools cannot 
“First-rate idea, Polly; I hadn’t 
of the car,” he continued, showing his 
board if you will make wheels of the 
Figure 3 shows how Donald made the 
center is the floor. It is two and three-quar- 
frame, and five and three-quarters inches 
side edges and curves up one-quarter of an 
at the back measure two inches at each edge, 
the side from the dotted line of the bend- 
square, measuring one and one-quarter 



point of the axle into the large end of a cork, 
possibly drop off.” 

thought of the hubs. This is the body 
paper pattern. I’ll draw it on the bristle- 
pill boxes.” 

body of the automobile. The oblong in the 
ters inches wide, just the width of the auto 
long. The back is two inches high at the 
inch higher in the middle. The bend-overs 
and curve, as in Figure 3. The length of 
over to the door is two inches. The door is 
inches each way. The length of the side 































Making an Automobile 


17 


between the dashboard and the door is two and one-half inches. Next to the door it is one and one-half inches high, and 
at the lower corner, where the curve ends, it is one inch high. The strip that meets the dashboard is three-eighths of an 
inch high. The bend-over, including the catch, is seven-eighths of an inch high and seven-eighths of an inch long, and 
the catches E and F are each three-eighths of an inch square. 

The dashboard fits in between the two front bend-overs. It is one and one-half inches high in the middle and 
slopes to the sides, which are one and one-quarter inches high. The slits in the dashboard, E and F, are each one-half 
inch long and just one-half inch from the side edges. The slit G at the top is one-half inch long and three-eighths inch 
below the top edge. When Donald had cut out the auto body and scored the dotted lines, he bent up the back, front 
and sides, then lapped the back bend-overs across the outside of the back and fastened them in place by running a pin 
through from the outside, as shown in Figure 17. He found that the pin alone would not make it sufficiently secure; so, 
adopting Polly’s idea, he pushed a cork on the pin, brought up snugly against the inside of the back, and it held like a bolt. 
The front bend-overs he lapped over the outside of the dashboard and pushed the catch E through the slit E and the catch 
F through the slit F. 

“Oh, Donald, the little doors will open, won’t they!” Polly exclaimed. 




The seats are easily made. No. 10 is the front seat. No. 11 the back seat, and No. 12 an arm of f^e former. No. 13 is the mud guard 














































18 


Making an Automobile 


“Of course,” said Donald, bending them outward along the dotted lines. “This is the hood,^ he went on. e 

power box, you know,” showing his pattern like Figure 4. “ I will draw it on the bristleboard now. ^ m h 

First, Donald drew an oblong, five and one-quarter inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide. his e 
divided into seven parts, or panels, by drawing straight, vertical lines across the oblong. (Figure 4.) Each of the two en 
panels he made one and one-sixteenth inches wide and each of the other panels five-eighths of an inch wide. Fie 
extended the middle panel up one and three-eighths inches above the oblong, and across the extension, half an inch above 
the top line of the oblong he drew a dotted line to denote that beyond that was a bend-over. Then he cut off the corners 
of the bend-over. (H, Figure 4.) He made extensions three-quarters of an inch high above the two panels next to the 
middle panel, then he cut off the inner part of these extensions, making each half an inch wide. (I and J, Figure 4.) 



Directly through the center of the middle panel Donald drew a straight, vertical line, bringing it down several 
inches below the bottom of the oblong. He did this in order that he might measure on either side and so get the end of 
the hood exactly in the middle and evenly balanced. He called this center line his plumb line. 

Three-eighths of an inch below the bottom line of the oblong, and three-quarters of an inch to the left of the plumb 
line, Donald drew a horizontal line just half an inch long; then he drew a corresponding line at exactly the same distance 
to the right of the plumb line. These lines he connected with the bottom corners of the middle panel with slanting lines. 
(Figure 4.) Half an inch below the two short horizontal lines he drew parallel lines of the same length and connected 
their outer ends with the outer ends of the upper lines by vertical lines. This made two square extensions. (K and L, 
Figure 4.) One-quarter of an inch below the lower lines of the extensions K and L he drew another horizontal line one 
and one-eighth inches long, half on one side of the plumb line, half on the other side, and then he connected this horizon¬ 
tal line with the inner ends of the bottom lines of the extensions K and L by slanting lines. This formed the octagon¬ 
shaped front face of the hood. Below the octagon he drew a bend-over one inch high and running almost to a point at 




















Making an 


the bottom and half an inch above the bottom edge of 
each end panel he made a slit three-quarters of an inch 
long. (MM, Figure 4.) 

When Donald bent the hood into shape it looked 
like Figure 5. The end panels from the bottom of the 
hood, and lapping completely over one another, make it 
double, and the point of the bend-over (M, Figure 4) 
slipped through the two slits M and M holds the hood in 
shape. 

“ But I don’t see how you are going to fasten it 
on,” said Polly. 

“Wait until I make the lamps,” Donald answered, 
“and I will show you. Are there any more corks, Polly?” 

“Yes; how many do you want?” 

“Four for the lamps, but bring all you have.” 

Donald selected two pretty good sized corks for 
the lower lamps and two smaller ones for the upper 
lamps. Both sizes were rather longer than he wanted, so 
he cut a slice off the small end of each cork. This left 
the largest corks three-quarters of an inch long and the 
smallest half an inch long. 

“Now, Polly,” he said, “we will cut some rounds 
of silver paper to fit the tops of these corks and paste 
them on to represent glass, then paint black circles 
around them for the rims to hold the glass. That will 
make them shine.” (Figure 6.) 

In a trice the lamps were finished and Donald 
fastened the largest ones on the extensions K and L at 
the front of the hood by running a large pin through the 
middle of each lamp, then through the extension, securing 
it at the back with a thick slice of cork. This done he 
proceeded to fasten the hood to the dashboard; first by 


Automobile 


19 



A front view and a rear view of the children’s automobile 

























































20 


Making an Automobile 


running the bend-over H through the slit H from the inside of the dashboard, then by pinning the small lamps on t e 
extensions I and J, running the pin through the dashboard also, and making fast with slices of cork. The exact position 

of the lamps is shown in the front view of the automobile. (Figure 16.) 

“Now fasten the whole thing together,” urged Polly, and Donald adjusted the body of the car to its frame. He 
allowed the back of the body to project over the back of the frame half an inch, which gave one inch and three quarters 
space in front of the hood to rest on. The hood extended about half an inch beyond the front of the frame. 

“The pins and corks hold so well I’ll use them for this,” Donald announced, as he pinned the floor of the auto 
body to the top of the frame. He put one pin just back of the dashboard and another close to the back of the auto body. 
This time he used two slices of cork for each pin, one on top of the floor, the other underneath the frame. 

The two back mud guards Donald made like Figure 13, which is a strip of bristleboard five and one-quarter inches 
long and five-eighths of an inch wide. The dotted line at the end, showing where it is to be bent, is three-quarters of an 
inch from the end and just half an inch from the slots that separate the catch from the guard. From the dotted line to 
the other end the guard is four and one-half inches long. 

The two front mud guards he made exactly like the back ones, except that between the dotted line and the dotted 
line and the opposite end the distance was but two and three-quarters inches. He curved all four of the guards by draw¬ 
ing them lightly over the blade of his knife; then he bent them at the dotted lines, turned in the ends of each catch and 
inserted each catch in its slit in the auto step. The two back guards he put at the back ends of the steps, the two front 
guards at the front ends of the steps. Taking two pins, he inserted them in one of the back mud guards, as shown in 
Figure 13; then he pushed the pins into the side of the car, the lower one into the frame just below the door and the other 
into the auto body about one-quarter of an inch from the back. The other back guard he secured in the same way, but 
one pin only was needed for each of the front guards. This was run in three-quarters of an inch from the bend of the 
guard and forced into the frame just in front of the dashboard. 

“Are the wheels ready?” asked Donald. 

“Here they are,” and Polly pushed across the table four little wheels like Figure 7. “I didn’t use the box covers 
because there was writing on them, but I tore away the upper part of the box and the lower part was exactly like the lid. 
I drew a circle on the bottom of each box to mark off the tire and then drew the spokes and little air valves. See them?” 

“ We will give the tires a light wash of black paint to make them rubber color and paint the spokes black,” 
said Donald. 

When they were finished Donald used three small corks for fastening each wheel in place. One for the hub, one 
inside the wheel, to steady it against the auto frame (Figure 8), and one on the inside of the auto frame. The front wheels 
he pinned at the extreme front of the auto frame, half way up from the bottom edge of the frame, and the back wheels at 
the extreme back of the frame, the same distance above the bottom edge. (NN, Figure 2.) 







Making an Automobile 


21 


^ OLi see,” said Donald, “these wheels must not touch the ground, else they will interfere with the speed of the car.” 

Here are the seats,” said Polly. “I worked them out while you were busy with the other parts.” 

Figures 10, 11 and 12 are the patterns of the seats. Figure 10 is the front seat and Figure 12 the arm that divides 
it into two. The seat proper is an oblong two inches and three-quarters long by one inch and three-eighths wide. The 
ends and front that bend down and form the supports are each three-quarters of an inch high. The back is one inch high 
at the middle of each curve and three-quarters of an inch high when it bends to form the arms. The arms, which are cut 
to fit the sides of the auto, are one inch and three-eighths long. The middle arm (Figure 12) is one and one-quarter 
inches long at the bottom, three-quarters of an inch high at the back and the laps are each one-quarter of an inch wide. 

Polly used paste to fasten the arm to the middle of the seat, putting the paste on the laps, then she fitted the seat in 
the car, pasting the sides of the seat to the sides of the car. 

The back seat has no arms. It is the same length as the front seat, but one-quarter of an inch wider. The sup¬ 
ports are the same height. The back at the middle is one and one-half inches high, while at the side edges it is one and 
one-quarter inches high. When the back seat was pasted to the back and sides of the car, Polly decided that she would 
make little cushions and cover them with tan-colored tissue paper, to look like leather. 

“I have made the steering wheel,” said Donald, and he held it up. (Figure 14.) Figure 15 shows how it is cut 
from bristleboard and then marked off into a rim and four spokes. He used a wooden toothpick for the column and a 
small cork to keep the wheel in place. First he forced the small cork onto the toothpick, pushing it down not quite half 
an inch, then he inserted the point of the stick into the small hole he had previously punctured in the center of the wheel 
and pushed the wheel down to rest on the cork. (Figure 14.) 

With a large hatpin he pierced a hole slantingly at the base of the dashboard, half an inch from the right side, all 
the way through the frame of the auto; then he forced the lower end of the steering column into the hole and it retained 
the proper slanting position. 

“ I didn’t forget the number,” said Polly, holding up a little oblong card, to which she had attached narrow strips of 
yellow paper for straps. On the card was printed the number of the Kraft Shop automobile. (Figure 9.) With a drop of 
paste on the end of each strap Polly hung the number to the back of the car. (Figure 17.) 

The finished motor car is shown in Figure 18. 

“Now we will test her speed,” said Donald, as he knelt on the floor and with a sure, strong push sent the auto 
spinning the whole length of the room. 

“My, but it does go!” said Polly. 





22 


Making the Bird Airship 
















By Adelia Belle Beard 

One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing 


H 


OW are we going to make an airship when we can’t fill the bag with gas?” said Donald. “Why, make it of stiff 
paper and it will stand out without gas,” Polly answered. “Yes, but I don’t see what is to hold it up?” Donald 
objected. “We will make the airship first and then find something to hold it up,” Polly replied, cheerfully. 

“That’s a girl’s way of doing things,” laughed Donald. 

“Well, it’s a good way,” retorted Polly. 

Donald did not entirely agree with her, but Polly’s way seemed the only way in this case. “Of course we will make 
the balloon cigar shaped, like a dirigible, and have a propeller,” he said. 

“Yes, and let us make wings, too; they will help keep it in the air,” Polly added. 

“And a tail for a rudder,” said Donald. 

“Why, it will look just like a bird!” Polly exclaimed. “And we can call it the ‘bird airship.’ That sounds nice, 
doesn’t it, Donald?” 

“All right,’’ said Donald; “now I’ll make the balloon.” 

‘^Oh, Donald, please let me do that. You always take the hardest parts and I know I can do some of them,” 
protested Polly. “Besides, I have thought of a way to make it.” 

“Well, I don’t care if you make the balloon,” said Donald. “This is your scheme, anyway. I’ll do the other 
things, but use this stiff manila paper, Polly; it is good and strong.” 

Polly was soon at work bending and clipping and shaping a pattern that later she would correct and reduce to exact 
measurements. Donald watched her while he waited to learn what size to make the wings, tail and little passenger car. 

“I am making the balloon in panels,” Polly informed him. “It is easier than trying to keep it round, and I shall 
cut each end into points with a bend-over on each point to fasten them together.” 

“Going to glue it?” 

“Why, no. I thought I would button it together with catches and slits. It is hard to glue a thing of this kind, and 
one has to hold each part so long for the glue to harden,” Polly answered. 

Figure 1 shows how Polly drew the pattern for her balloon after making it out. She was very careful in her meas- 



Making the Bird Airship 


24 








































25 


Making the Bird Airship 


Lirements, using a rule and making the lines for the panels exact¬ 
ly one inch apart. “The sides won’t fit if they are not even,” she 
said to herself. 

‘ That looks simple enough,” commented Donald. 

When Polly cut the balloon out along the heavy lines it 

1*1 ^ When the balloon was put together it looked like th's 

was like Figure 2. 

By this time Donald, who had been experimenting with Polly’s first pattern, had designed the wings (h'igure 3), and 
the tail (Figure 5). He directed Polly to cut slits for the wings in the position shown in PO, OP, Figure 2. The slits P 
are exactly in the middle of the edge between the first and second panels at the top and the first and second panels at the 
bottom, and the slits O are in the middle of each second panel, top and bottom. Each slit is three-quarters of an inch long. 

“Now make slits for the tail in the top edges of the top point and the fourth from the top point,” said Donald. 
“Make each slit five-eighths of an inch from the tip.” 

“How long a slit?” said Polly. 

“Three-eighths of an inch,” returned Donald. 

So Polly made the slits R and Q, Figure 2, and then bent the balloon along the dotted lines. Donald made the 

wings (Figure 3) four and one-eighth inches long from tip of catch to 
tip of wing. The neck of the catch is one-half of an inch long and five- 
eighths of an inch wide, and the catch from tip of point to neck is three- 
eighths of an inch deep. Just above the neck of the catch the wing is 
seven-eighths of an inch wide and at its broadest part it is three and one- 
quarter inches wide. 

Donald bent in the points of the catch of one wing and pushed 
the catch in through the slit O in the balloon and out through the slit P, 
then he opened out the points of the catch. 

“That will hold it steady,” he said, and fastened the other wing 
on in the same way. 

“Do you want to fasten the tail on now?” asked Polly. 

“No. Put the balloon together first,” said Donald. 

Then Polly began to shape her balloon by slipping the catches of 
the bend-overs at the bottom L, M, N through the slits L, M, N. She 
lapped L and N over the panel and M under the panel. This brought 
the catches of L and N on the inside, and the catch of M on the outside. 



























26 


Making the Bird Airship 


Then she lapped the bend-over of the point B over the edge of the point A and inserted the catch of the bend-over in the 
slit in the point A. The catch of the bend-over of the point C she put through the slit in the point B, and in the same 
way fastened D to C, E to D and F to E. This brought all the points at one end of the balloon together, except F and A, 
and these she secured by putting the catch J of the point A in through the slit J and out through the slit K in the point F, 
which brought the catch on the outside. The other end of the balloon she put together in the same way, and it looked 
like Figure 4. 

“This is the tail,” Donald said, holding up a piece of paper cut like Figure 5. The tail is four and one-half inches 
long, two and one-quarter inches wide at the end and five-eighths of an inch wide where it joins the body. Donald cut a 
slit half an inch long in the middle of the narrow end and then cut out a small, wedge-shaped piece at the end of the slit. 
The wedge is five-eighths of an inch long and a trifle over one-quarter of an inch at the base. 





A 


d) 

r* 

"u 

r* 


“What is that pointed hole for,” said Polly. 

“The end of the balloon fits in that when these two square catches (Q, R, Figure 
5) are put through the slits you made for the tail,” Donald answered. (Q, R, Figure 2.) 
Polly looked for the slits and found that one was on the top edge and one on the bot¬ 
tom edge of the back end of the balloon. 

“Now we will hitch it on,” said Donald, taking the balloon from Polly and ad¬ 
justing the tail. He opened the slit between the catches, pushed the catch Q down 
through the top slit Q, and the catch R up through the bottom slit R, and the tail could 
not slide out of place. “The wings must stand out at the sides,” he added, bending 
each wing down where it joined the balloon. 

“Is this the car?” Polly inquired, taking up the little box. (Figure 6.) 

“Yes,” said Donald, “but I haven’t put the propeller on yet.” 

The car Donald made is pointed at each end. It is three inches long from point 
to point, one inch wide and one inch high. Each side of the car is two inches long and 
the ends are double. Figure 7 is the pattern of the car. The entire length of one side 
of Figure 7 is five inches, while the entire length of the other side is but four and three- 
quarters inches. The difference is at the ends. The end divisions on the left of Figure 
7 are three-quarters of an inch from top to bottom, while the end divisions on the right 
are only five-eighths of an inch from top to bottom. The other divisions of the two 
ends are exactly alike, each three-quarters of an inch from top to bottom. The slits V, 
W, T, U, are one-eighth of an inch from the inner edge and are three-eighths of an inch 
long. V and U are one-eighth of an inch from the end edges and the slits W and T 


are one-quarter of an inch from V and U. 











Making the Bird Airship 


27 


Donald made a catch at either end of the left side of Figure 7 (Y, X). The necks of these catches are one-quarter 
of an inch long. Then he bent up the points V, W, U, T, along the dotted lines, which made the floor of the car pointed 
at each end. He bent the sides up and the ends in, according to the dotted lines. The points V, W, U, T, he pushed 
through the corresponding slits from the inside of the car, V through V,W through W, U through U and T through T. 
Then he fitted the other end pieces on the outside, covering the points, and fastened the catches Y and X in the slits Y and 
X. This held the point securely between the double ends and made all snug and tight. 

‘I can put the ropes on now,” said Polly, and threading a needle with soft cotton twine she pushed the needle 
through the double end of the car just beyond the side bend and near the top edge, as shown in Figure 6. She drew the 
string through and tied it at the end. Threading the needle again, she fastened another string to the other end of the car; 
then, with the needle still threaded, she took a stitch in the bottom edge 
of the balloon at the middle of one of the bend-overs. The place is indi¬ 
cated by the two dots on Figure 4. Bringing the needle down again, she 
ran it through the opposite side of the car, unthreaded it and tied the end 
of the string to the car. 

This made a loop which passed from one side of the car through the 
bottom edge of the balloon to the other side of the car. The string used 
for the loop was three and one-half inches long. The other end of the car 
Polly attached to the balloon in the same way and the little passenger car 
hung suspended from the balloon by four ropes. (Figure 8.) 

“ I have the propeller ready now,” said Donald. 

“What a good idea to use a pinwheel for a propeller!” exclaimed 
Polly. “How will you fasten it on?” 

“This way,” said Donald, and he ran 
a hatpin through the pinwheel, pushed a 
small cork up on the pin, leaving one inch 
between the cork and the head of the pin 
so that the wheel would turn easily. (Fig¬ 
ure 9.) Then he forced the pin in through 
the middle of the forward end of the car 
and out the middle of the back, allowing 
a space of one-quarter of an inch between 
the cork and the car. (Figure 8.) 
















































28 


Making the Bird Airship 


h>, I3onald, j ou have put the propeller in front of the car!” cried Polly. 

1 hat is all ri^ht,” Donald assured her. “It won’t spin around if we have it at the back; and, besides, Santos Du¬ 
mont, who has made some of the finest airships in the world, put the propeller at the front of some of them. He say s it 
draws the ship alon^ instead of pushing it.” 

Donald made the pinwheel for his propeller of a two-inch square of paper. He folded the square diagonally first 
one way, then the other, and cut slits along the folds almost to the center, as I am sure you all know how to do. Then he 
took up the alternate points and, turning them over to the center, ran the pin through them and the center of the wheel in 
the way you have done scores of times. 

Now, Polly', said Donald, “how are you going to make the thing fly?” 

I will show y ou,” said Polly, and she threaded a needle with a piece of strong black linen thread ten inches long. 
Then she took a stitch through the top edge of the balloon at the forward end, drew the thread through and tied the end 
fast. She took a stitch through the top edge of the balloon at the other end, where she tied the last end of the thread. 
This made a loop extending upward from the top of the balloon. (Figure 8.) 

In Figure 2 you will see just where the needle was put through the edge of the balloon. At the middle of the loop 
Polly tied another piece of thread about two feet long, and at the end of the long thread she tied a short loop. 

atch it now, Donald!” she cried, as, grasping the short loop tightly in one hand and holding it at arm’s lengthy 
she began to swing the airship around in a circle. Slowly it went at first; then, gathering speed, it began to fly in earnest. 
The little propeller spun around busily and the ship seemed sailing by its own power. As the supporting thread was black, 
it was hardly' visible, and the wings that were lifted and lowered by the movements of the ship appeared, like a bird’s 
wings, to buoy it up. 



The propeller is made of a pinwheel on a short hatpin 


“Isn’t it perfectly lovely?” Polly exclaimed. “See how I can make it 
dip and rise again, just like a real airship.” 

Yes, it is certainly good,” he said; “and one of the best things about it 
is the way the tail acts as a rudder. Don’t you see how it keeps the ship 
going always forward? Here—let me see if I can make it back.’’ And, tak¬ 
ing the thread from Polly’s hand, he swung the ship in a straight line, first 
one way then the other, but at each end of the course the balloon turned and 
started over the route again, bow forward. 

“It is all right, Polly,” he declared. “Put some of your little dolls in 
the car for passengers and we will give them a ride.” 









Sand Toys 


By Adelia Belle Beard 


One of the Authors of Little Folks’ Handy Book 


W hat can we do with this beautiful sand, Donald?” asked Polly as she let 
through her fingers. 

Make a sand wheel,” answered Donald with sudden inspiration. 
“And we can do it now.” 

Polly was more than willing, so they were soon hard at work in their out-of- 
door Kraft Shop on the back porch of their summer home. 

“First we must make the wheel and next a high reservoir to hold the sand,” 
Donald announced. 

“ I will make the wheel if it doesn’t have to be wood,” said Polly. 

“Bristolboard will do, and the wheel must be a good deal like a water wheel, 
you know, Polly. 

“Yes, of course,” and Polly placed a smooth piece of bristolboard on the table 
and took her school compass from the drawer, while Donald disappeared into the 
house in search of a flat-sided cocoa can which he had decided would answer for 
his reservoir. 

Polly made her wheel in this way: First she drew a straight, horizontal line 
six inches long on the bristolboard (E B, Figure D, then she put the point of her 
compass directly on the middle of the line and drew a circle that just touched each 
end of the line. This gave her a circle six inches in diameter. (Figure 1.) Keep¬ 
ing the point of her compass on the middle of the line, she drew another circle 
inside the first, making the second circle five and one-quarter inches in diameter 
and three-eighths of an inch from the outer circle. Inside the second circle, with 
the point of the compass still on the middle of the line, she drew a third circle two 
inches in diameter. This left just one and five-eighths inches between the two 

29 


the dry white sand of the beach sift 






2. mChe^ 


<■ 


2 . ^inches 

























30 


Sand Toys 


inner circles. Dividing the second circle into six equal parts, she proceeded to draw the lines F C, A D, and a little to the 
right of these, also by the side of the horizontal line, she drew parallel lines. “These,” Polly explained, are the slots to 
hold the steps of my wheel.” 

“ Buckets, Polly, not steps,” protested Donald. 

“Well, buckets; 1 am going to have six buckets between the two wheels.” 

“There is only one wheel; the sides are called 

disks,” again corrected Donald. 

“ Disks, then, and I will fasten the buckets on 
with bolts. You see, the outer edge of each bucket 
is to be turned up to hold the sand. I suppose that 
is why it is called a bucket,” said Polly. 

“You know what you are doing, go ahead,” 
said Donald; and Polly went ahead. She made an¬ 
other disk exactly like Figure 1 and cut both out 
carefully. She used a sharp pocketknife for cutting 
the slots and a ruler to guide the knife along the 
lines. Then she made her buckets, six of them, like 
Figure 2. First she drew a square that measured 
exactly two inches on each edge. This was for the 
bottom of the bucket. On each side of the square 
she added extensions three-eighths of an inch wide 
and one and one-half inches long, placing them at 
equal distances from the top and bottom edges of 
the square. (G G, Figure 2.) At the top of the 
square she added an oblong one-half inch wide and 
extending all the way across. The dotted line in 
Figure 2 shows where this oblong is to be bent up 
to form the front of the bucket. Along each side 
line of the square, at equal distances from the ends 
of the extension, she made slots five-eighths of an 
inch long. (H H, Figure 2.) The bolts, two for 

I* 

each bucket, she made like Figure 3. The upper 


















Sand Toys 


31 


part of each bolt was one inch long and 
three-eighths of an inch wide and the lower 
part was half an inch square. 

“It is all ready now. See how easy 
it is to put together, Donald,” said Polly, 
as she bent up the front of a bucket and 
slipped one of its extensions through a slot 
in one of the disks and the other extension 
through a slot in the other disk, and then 
secured them in place by sliding a bolt 
through the slot in each extension. (Fig. 7.) 

“Better glue those bolts down,” said 
Donald. “When the wheel turns fast they 
may drop out.” 

By this time Donald had gathered to¬ 
gether all the materials for his sand tower. 
For the base of the tower he used an empty 
cigar box, eight inches long and two and 
one-quarter inches deep, and for the reser¬ 
voir a cocoa can four inches high and two 
inches wide at the narrow sides. On each 
of the wide sides of the can, about one and 
one-half inches from the top and at equal 
distances from the side edges, he made a 
hole by driving a large wire nail through 
the tin. (I, Figure 4.) In the bottom he 
cut with a can opener a large hole, as 
shown in Figure 4. This hole is not in the 
middle, but at the back, left-hand corner 
as the can stands upside down. (Figure 4.) 

“The funnel goes through this hole,” 
Donald said. “ I have made a funnel for 




















































I INCH 


32 


Sand Toys 


the sand because it holds more than the can and because only a part of the sand will run out of the can without it. 

Donald made the funnel of a piece of strong paper twelve inches square. He twisted this into a cornucopia and 
then trimmed it off evenly at the top and cut the point off at the bottom. He enlarged the bottom opening several times 
in order to allow a sufficient flow of sand to turn the wheel easily. The lapped edges he pasted securely together. 1 o 
hold the reservoir up he whittled out of an old shingle two uprights like Figure 5. Each upright was thirteen and one-half 
inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide, except at the top, where it widened out to one inch. Three-quarters of an 
inch from the top edge he bored a hole large enough to admit a very large, spikelike wire nail a little over four inches long 
and quite thick. 

“ I am going to spike these on,” Donald said, thrusting the large nail through the hole in one upright, then through 
both holes in the can and through the hole in the other upright. “ It is a little loose, though,” he continued, shaking the 


can. 


‘‘Put a cork on the end of the spike,” said Polly; ‘‘that will hold it.” Donald took her advice and pushed a large, 
flat cork up on the nail until it fitted snugly against the tin and held it firmly in place. Then he took up the cigar box. 
“Will you make a hole in this for the shaft of the wheel, Polly? Put it just here,” he said, indicating a spot two and one- 
half inches from the top and half an inch from the left-hand edge as the box stands on end. (J, Figure 6.) “Bore it with 
a hot wire nail; it will make a smoother surface than the gimlet.” 

Then Polly, holding her hot nail with a pair of pincers, burned a small round hole in the cigar box and also the hole 

K in the front upright. Figure 8. This front upright, which was to hold the outer end of the wheel shaft, Donald had 

whittled from a shingle. He made it six and one-quarter inches high, with a base three and one-half inches wide. Polly 
was careful to have the hole in the upright the same distance from the bottom of the box, so that the shaft of the wheel 
would be perfectly horizontal when put through the two holes. Donald used small wire nails for fastening the side up¬ 
rights to the cigar box. He removed the lid of the box, so that he could easily get at the inside, then drove the nails 

through the uprights into the side, top and bottom edges of the box. (Figure 6.) 






i-nche£> 


44 INCH 


















33 


Sand Toys 



(( 


The sand tower was not difficult to make 


I think we will have to nail the tower and other things to a board,” he said. “They 
will never stand firm on the sand.” A suitable piece of board could not be found, but Polly 
begged an old pastry board from the cook and that made a fine flooring for their machinery. 
Donald stood the sand tower on the board at the lefthand front corner, with the cigar box 
base just six and one-half inches from the front edge and four inches from the side edge of the 
board. “I can tack this down from the inside of the box,” he said, and using two good sized 
carpet tacks he drove them through the end of the box into the board. “Now get a shaft for 
your wheel, Polly, and we will put the wheel up before I nail the front upright in place.” 

Polly had secured for the shaft of her wheel a long, slender paint brush handle. The 
brush was a No. 2 bristle oil paint brush, and had cost five cents when new. Exactly at the 
center of each disk of the wheel she made a puncture and then gradually and with great care 
pushed her shaft through until the wheel was in the middle and on the largest part of the 
shaft. Then she cut a medium-sized cork 


into three slices. The two largest slices 
she pushed up on the shaft, one from 
either end, and before settling them in 
place she put a little glue on the shaft 



close to the wheel as well as on the inner side of the corks, then 
pushed the corks up over the glue on the shaft and close against the 
wheel. In this way the shaft, the corks and the wheel were glued 
together. “They must all turn together,” Polly remarked, “and not 
like a wheel on an axle.” On the end of the shaft which was to rest 
in the hole in the box, she slid the remaining slice of cork, leaving it 
within three-quarters of an inch of the cork fastened to the wheel. 
This was to keep the shaft from running too far into the box. 

“Be sure you get the right end of the shaft into the box,” 
Donald cautioned. “ Remember, the edges of the buckets bend down 
when the left side of the wheel is toward you.” (Figure 7.) 

“I know,” said Polly. “Now I am going to put this large 
glass bead on to keep the cork from touching the box. The bead is 
so smooth and round it will turn easily against the wood.” So Polly 
put her bead on the shaft and slipped the end of the shaft through 


winding 

ST>OOl. 



The wheel and shaft turn together 















































































34 


Sand Toys 


I incK 


the box. “ I will put a bead on the inside, too,” she added, “and then a cork to keep it from slipping off, and it will have to 
be a very small cork or it will rub against the side of the box and the shaft won’t turn.” (Figure 7.) 

Meanwhile Donald had been devising a way to hold the front upright erect. “I have it now, he exclaimed, and 

cutting a piece of wood half an inch wide and half an inch thick into two 
pieces four and one-half inches long, he nailed them to the front and back 
of the lower edge of the upright; then sliding the free end of the shaft 
through the hole in the upright, he settled the upright in place in front of 
the box, a little to the left, so that the hole in the box and the hole in the 
upright were directly opposite each other and the shaft went through true 
and straight. Then he nailed the supports to the board. (Figure 7.) 

When the children adjusted the funnel and filled it with sand they 
found that to make it work perfectly it was necessary to tilt the can for¬ 
ward in order to send the stream of sand near the outer edge of the wheel, 
and that something must be invented to hold the can in that position, so 
Donald quickly whittled out the little brace. (Figure 9.) The brace is 
five inches long at the bottom, two and one-quarter inches long at the top 
and one and five-eighths inches high. The V-shaped notch is one inch 
from the front end. 

Fitting the back edge of the can into the notch of the brace, Donald 
adjusted the brace on top of the box so that the can was held at the required 

2 . I'lldhe9?- 




0 ) 

























Sand Toys 


35 



1 





--- 

7 _ ^ 




belt spool 


angle and the falling sand struck the wheel in the right place; then 
with two small nails he fastened it on securely. (Figure 6.) Donald 
also slipped a thin strip of wood between the back of the funnel and 
the large nail. The wood rested on the bottom of the can and. ex¬ 
tended up to the top of the funnel. 

“That will strengthen it,” he said. “The wheel works all 
rightj; now we will make it move things.” 

“ Let us have a merry-go-round,” Polly suggested. 

“Yes, and a mine. The wheel will draw the miners up in a bucket, and then I think when the merry-go-round 
turns it will pull a wagon uphill, too,” Donald answered. 

“And everything will move at once,” Polly cried delightedly. 

“We will have to have a belt spool and a winding spool on the 
end of this shaft,” Donald said. “The belt spool will connect it with 
the merry-go-round and the winding spool will draw up the miner’s 
bucket. The spools must be fastened to the shaft, too, so that they 
will turn with it.” 

As the shaft was too slender to fit the holes in the spools, Polly 
wrapped it with a strip or newspaper. (L, Figure 7.) She used news¬ 
paper because it was soft and would cling. She cut a strip about 
twelve inches long and two inches wide. This she covered on one side 
with glue; then sticking one end to the shaft about half an inch from 
the upright, she wrapped the paper tightly around the shaft, making a 
number of layers, which, glued together, became a solid mass. Donald 
had selected two spools and glued the ends together—a medium-sized 
spool for the belt spool and a small spool for the winding spool. When 
the glue had hardened on the spools and on the paper roll he covered 
the outside of the roll and the inside of the spools with glue and pushed 
the spools up on the shaft until they covered the paper roll and stuck 
fast. (Figure 7.) 

“Now cut a round bristolboard disk for the merry-go-round, 

Polly,” Donald said, “while I rig up a stand for it.” The merry-go-round u buut like this 

The disk Polly made was seven and one-half inches in diameter with a round hole in the center a little larger than 


GLU e. .TOQE Tn e rC 




WR ITtNG« 

ooNe. 





M 









































































































































vS6 


Sand Toys 


the hole in a spool, and while she was drawing the circle and cutting it out Donald found a level-sided block of wood, 
two and one-quarter inches high, for the base of his stand. To this block he nailed small strips of wood, one on either 
side like the supports on the front upright. (Figure 10.) Then, selecting a medium-sized spool, two smaller spools and 
a buttonhole twist spool to make the shaft of the merry-go-round the proper height, he glued the two smallest spools 
together and the larger and buttonhole twist spools together. On top of the smallest spools he glued the disk, d aking 
a second spikelike wire nail, longer than the one used on the sand tower (M, Figure 10), he slipped it through the disk 
and the two smallest spools, then stopped and 


thought a moment. “A washer will have to 
go on now,” he said, “to make these upper 
spools turn easily on the lower ones.” So he 
cut a washer like N, Figure 10, from a piece 
of very glossy writing paper, making it a little 
larger than the end of the spools. “I’ll glue 
these two lower spools to the block before I 
put the nail through,” he continued as he cov¬ 
ered the bottom of the buttonhole twist spool 
with glue and fitted it on top of the block ex¬ 
actly in the middle. Fie waited a while for the 
glue to dry; then, placing his paper washer on 
top of the large spool, he dropped the point of 
the nail down through the washer and the 
spools and drove the nail into the block far 
enough to hold it quite steady, but leaving 
enough space between the top of the disk and 
the head of the nail to let the disk turn freely. 
“We will put the merry-go-round here,” Don¬ 
ald went on, as he placed the block directly at 
the front edge of the board about seven and 
one-half inches to the right of the sand tower. 
“ It won’t do to have it too far from the wheel.” 
Then, driving nails through the strips of wood 
on either side of the block, he fastened the 


/z 













37 


_Sand Toys 

merry-go-round in place. “Now get a piece of tape for the belt, Polly, and we will make her spin,” he said. “Get cotton 
tape; linen is too slippery.” 

Polly returned with a piece of cotton tape a little over a quarter of an inch wide and about twenty-five inches long. 
Donald passed it over the belt spool on the wheel shaft and around the belt spool on the merry-go-round shaft (Figure 11) 
and pinned the lapped ends together. Then Polly poured sand in the funnel of the sand tower and Donald watched the 
working of the belt, tightening or loosening it as it seemed to require. When it was in perfect working order Polly sewed 
the ends of the tape together, making a lapped seam, as in Figure 11. Then she proceeded to fasten a piece of thread 
about a yard and one-quarter long to each of the winding spools. First she placed one end of the thread lengthwise on 
the spool and then glued a strip of paper around the spool and over the thread. Looking up from her work, she found 
Donald drawing a circle on a piece of writing paper. 

“ I am making a cone,” he explained, “to fit over the lower spools and prevent the thread from catching on the block.” 

Donald made the circle for his cone six and one-half inches in diameter, and at the center he cut a round hole large 
enough to fit around the spool. Out of this circle he cut a pie-shaped slice four and three-quarters inches wide at the 
outer edge. (Figure 12.) Adjusting the cone on the lower part of the winding spool, he lapped the edges and pasted 
them together. The cone stood out beyond the side edges, but did not touch the block. 

“ I am going to put these on the merry-go-round, they will look so pretty ‘ as they sail, as they sail,’ ” chanted Polly, 
showing four little boats she had cut from writing paper and painted in gay colors with watercolor paints. Polly had 
made the boats with extensions at the bottom, which she slit up through the middle. Bending one half out on one side 
and the other half out on the other side, she pasted the extensions to the top of the disk near the edge, placing the boats 
at equal distances apart. By this time Donald had begun a little wagon, making it of a match box by cutting writing 
paper wheels and pinning them on to the box with ordinary pins, one pin for each wheel. “The wagon must not be 
heavy,” he said, “ because our machinery is light.” The children chose a small, light toy basket to use as a miner’s bucket, 
and then made two paper doll miners to put in the bucket and a paper doll lady to ride in the wagon. The end of the 
thread hanging from the winding spool on the wheel shaft they tied to the handle of the basket and the thread fastened 
to the winding spool on the shaft of the merry-go-round they tied to the front of the wagon. Then they carried the whole 
thing out on the beach and set it up on an empty box which they had put on top of a little hill of sand to raise it high 
above the ground. Donald found a smooth board, one end of which he propped up directly under the merry-go-round 
and on this he set the little wagon, drawing it down the full length of the thread. Polly scooped a hole in the sand for a 
mine and dropped the little basket in it. Then, all being ready, Polly held her hand under the funnel for a stopper, Don¬ 
ald filled the funnel with dry sand, Polly took away her hand, the sand began to run out in a steady stream, the wheel 
whirled round, the merry-go-round spun merrily, fluttering the tissue-paper pennants on the little boats and tipping them 
most naturally. The miner’s basket emerged from the mine and slowly ascended, and the little wagon climbed up the 
incline, bearing its lady passenger. 









38 


How to Make a Trolley Car 


























































































How to Make a Trolley Car 

By Adelia Belle Beard 

One of the Authors of Things Worth Doing 

[All rights reserved] 


ti 


P 




OLLY!” called Donald, leaning over the banisters, “I’ve a jolly good idea this morning and I want you to 
Polly had been romping with her two fuzzy little kittens in the lower hall, but she promptly deserted 
mounted the stairs on a run. 

“What is it?” she cried, appearing at the Kraft Shop door be¬ 
fore Donald had reached his seat at the table. 

“What do you think of making a little trolley car?” he replied. 

“One that will go on a real trolley wire? I think that will be 
just loads of fun. How long can we have the line?” 

“As long as we like, but I will use linen thread instead of wire; 
it is easier to manage.” 

“And we will use spools for wheels, of course, and bristolboard 
for the car,” said Polly. 


help me.” 
them and 




A 


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39 

















































































































40 


How to Make a Trolley Car ____ 

“Yes, and I’m going to make as much of the car in one piece as I can.” 

“Then I don’t see what I can do,” Polly objected. 

“Oh, there will have to be some separate parts,” Donald hastened to say. “You can make the little top roof and the 
trolley pole, and you can get the spools and thread and two little sticks for axles. That will be a big help. Now look at 
my pattern; you see. I’ve worked it down until it fits into an oblong, fourteen inches long and seven and one-half inches 
wide. This takes in the main part of the car, but not the platforms. (Figure I.) Now I will carry these two lines 
(J H and J L) down to make a platform and the upright front of the platform. I don t suppose it is called a dashboard. 

“Where will you put the other platform?” inquired Polly. 

“At the upper right hand corner,,” said Donald. Then Donald drew below the lines H Hand above the lines GG the 
platform which, for lack of space, is given separately here, but which must be traced and made a part of the pattern by 
being fitted out at each end of the car. 

“This projection,” (M) Donald continued, “is to fasten the front of the platform to the roof.” 

“You haven’t made a place for the wheels,” said Polly. 

“You’re right, I haven’t. We will put them here,” and Donald drew the axle guards, marked F. “This is the place 
for the doors,” he went on, indicating the spaces at either end of the two sides of the car. “The top part of the door is 
glass, you know,” he said. On the door at the upper left-hand corner (Figure 2) he made the catch B and on the middle 
line of the lower door he cut the slot B. The inner edge of the slot is on the line, the outer edge is left of the line. The 
order was reversed on the right-hand side. (Figure 2.) Here he put the catch (A) on the lower door and the slot (A) on 
the upper door. 

“ If you will tell me how large you want the little top roof I’ll make it now,” said Polly. 

“All right. I’ll draw a place for it, then I’ll know,” and on the top of the car Donald drew the oblong two and one- 
quarter inches wide. The top line of the oblong was three-eighths of an inch below the line I I, and the bottom line of 
the oblong was three-eighths of an inch above the line J J, Figure 2. 

“Now I have it,” he said. “You must make the little top roof just eight inches long and 
two and one-quarter inches wide. Draw an oblong exactly that size, you know, for the top. I 
want it to stand up half an inch above the car, so you must add half an inch at each side and 
each end, with bend-overs and catches at each corner to hold the sides and ends together, and 
slits in the sides for the catches. Then make large catches to hold the top roof to the other roof, 
one catch at each end of each side and one in the middle of each end. (Figure 3.) Be sure and 
make the side catches half an inch from the end of the oblong.” 

“You mean,” said Polly, “that the neck of the catch must be half an inch from the corner 
when the sides and ends are bent down.” 


















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How to Make a Trolley Car 


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42 


How to Make a Trolley Car 


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“That’s it, and make the neck half an inch wide and the catch about one inch long from end to end. Don u forget 
the hole in the middle of the roof for the trolley pole,” Donald added. “Make it not quite half an inchin diameter. 
(Figure 3.) Then Donald drew slots for the catches in the oblong on top of his car, placing them to correspond with the 
catches on the top roof and making them a little more than half an inch long. He placed each side slot just half an inch 

from the ends of the oblong, and 

all inside the boundary line. 

“Now I will draw in the win¬ 
dows, eight on each side,” he an¬ 
nounced, spacing them off care¬ 
fully with a rule. He made each 
window three-quarters of an inch 
wide and seven-eighths of an inch 
high, allowing one-quarter of an 
inch space between. Then on the 
front of each platform he drew an 
opening two inches wide and one 
and one-quarter inches high. On 
a line with the lower edge of the 
front of the bottom, in the middle 
of the projection, he drew a slot a 
little over one inch long (Figure 
2), and on the roof extension at 
each end of the car he made a slot 
a little over two inches long, C and 
D, page 41. These slots are one 
and one-quarter inches from the 
end lines of the middle oblong on 
the roof. 

“My car is ready to cut out 
now,” said Donald. 

“So is my top roof,” said Polly. 
“Is the trolley pole all right?” 


in 

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2 • n c h e 

































How to Make a Trolley Car 


43 


Polly had made the pole seven and one-half inches long and one-quarter of an inch wide, with a ring at one end 
five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and a ball as the other end one-half an inch in diameter. (Figure 4.) 

Donald pronounced the pole “first rate.” “Put the ball through the hole, Polly,” he said. So when Polly had cut 
out the roof according to the heavy lines and bent down the sides and ends according to the dotted lines (Figure 3), she 
turned in one edge of the ball and pushed it through the round hole in the roof. When she flattened the ball out again it 
could not slip through the hole, but the pole could be moved in any direction. 

Donald cut out his car according to the heavy lines and bent it according to the dotted lines. Both he and Polly 
remembered to score the dotted lines lightly with the edge of a pocket knife before bending them. The sides of the car 
Donald bent down; the doors he bent inward to meet under the projecting roof; the platform he turned out and the front 
of the platform up. Before fastening the catches and projections in their slots he fitted the top roof on the car, putting the 
catches marked X through the slots marked X. First he bent both ends of each catch inward, which made them narrow 
enough to slide through the slots, then he pushed the catches through the slots, settled the top roof firmly on the main 






































44 


How to Make a Trolley Car 


roof and opened the catches on the inside of the car. When this was done he fastened the doors by putting the catch B 
through the slot B in the opposite half of one door, and the catch A through the slot A on the opposite half of the other 
door. The projections at the top of the fronts of the two platforms he pushed through their corresponding slots in the roof. 

“Hello! we’ve forgotten the bolts for these projections,” Donald suddenly exclaimed. 

“I’ll make them while you put on the wheels,” said Polly. Then she cut two bolts like Figure 5, making them one 
and one-half inches wide at the bottom and one inch wide at the top. When the bolts were slipped through the slots in 
the projections C and D they held the fronts of the platforms securely in place. The two spools that Polly had selected for 
wheels were like Figure 6, each about two inches high, and the slender, round sticks, pointed at each end, were four inches 
long. Donald slipped a spool on one of the sticks, then pushed one end of the stick through the middle of one of the axle 
guards from the inside, and the other end of the stick through the middle of the opposite axle guard. 

“ Here are the hubs,” said Polly, producing four small corks. Then Donald pushed a cork on each end of the stick. 
The corks kept the axle from slipping out of place. He adjusted the other spool in the same way, then threaded a large 
needle with a piece of linen thread several yards long and pushed the needle through the front of the platform below the 
opening at the place marked with a dot in Figure 2. A large knot on the inside of the front of the platform held the string 
in place and the needle was again threaded with a long thread to fasten on the other end of the car. (Figure 7.) 

“Now for the trolley wire,” exclaimed Polly. “How shall we put that up?” 

“This way,” said Donald, and he placed two chairs at opposite ends of the room, then he cut a piece of thread a 
little longer than the space between the chairs and tied one end to the top rung of one chair. The other end of the thread 
he passed through the ring in the top of the trolley pole and then tied it to the top rung of the other chair. 

“There we are. Now, Polly, you sit down by the chair and take hold of one thread, and I will sit by this chair and 
hold the other thread. When you pull your thread the car will run all the way to your chair; when I pull my thread back 
it will come to me.” 

The children kept the little car running back and forth for some time and were vastly entertained. When they 
wished, they had it make several stops to allow imaginary passengers to get off and on, and again it was an express car, 
and went from one end of the line to the other without stopping. Finally Donald was called away to go an errand and Polly 
discovered that she could work the car entirely alone by running the loose ends of the threads over the lower rungs of the 
chairs, tying the two ends together and pulling the thread first one way, then the other. Figure 8 shows the trolley in work¬ 
ing order with the threads tied together in the way Polly devised. 











Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 

By Adelia Belle Beard 

I AM going to have a Kraft Shop, a Kraft Shop!” sang Polly, noisily pulling out the old and much-battered table in 
the children’s play room and then skipping excitedly around to hunt up scissors, knife, ruler and pencils, the tools 
she thought would be necessary. Donald watched proceedings over the top of his book. Things were beginning 
to look interesting. “What do you know about Kraft Shops?” 

“ Everything. Mother told me and, besides, I went through a real Kraft Shop last summer and saw all the people 
at work. 

“What were they making?” 

“Why—er—I am not sure that I quite remember just what they were making, but I know they do make beau-ti-ful 
things, and all with their hands, too. They don’t use machinery at all. That’s what I’m going to do, and you, too, Don¬ 
ald. I don’t want to be a Krafter all by myself. Mother said it would be nice if you and I started a home Kraft Shop and 
made toys and all sorts of things.” 

Donald’s book closed with a snap. “All right. I’m ready. What shall we try first?” 

“Suppose we make toy furniture and call it—oh, 1 know, we will call it Kraft-Shop 
furniture, and pretend that it’s real.” 

“First rate; but I’ll have to get some wood.” 

“No you won’t; we can make it of this cardboard; it will be easier to cut, anyway.” 

“That is bristolboard, but it is better than cardboard, stronger and tougher, you know, 
and we can put the furniture together with pegs, just as if it were of wood.” 

“Yes, yes!” said Polly, jumping up and down in 
her enthusiasm. “That’s it. I was sure you would 
knowhow. What will you make?” 

“A table, I think—a library table.” 

“Then I’ll make an armchair, and, Donald, it is go¬ 
ing to have rockers, too.” 

“How about bookshelves, Polly? They would 
make the library set complete.” 



Donald’s table. Figure 2 



45 
























46 


Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


Dear me! Of course we must have the shelves. Now let’s begin this very minute. 

“Well, get the furniture advertisements you saved—the pictures, you know. They will give us ideas, but we won t 
have to cop>' them exactly.’’ 

After many experiments and alterations, and with much fitting together of the various parts, Donald finished his 
table, Polly her chair, and together they worked out the bookshelves, using bolts for the shelves, instead of pegs, to hold 


them together. Here they are, Figures 1, 2, and 16. 



“They are good and 
strong, Donald said. 

“And so pretty,” Polly 
added. 

“And we didn’t use a 
bit of glue,” continued 
Donald, proudly. 

“And I can put cushions 
in my chair if I like—real 
huffy, puffy cushions.” 

“And little books on the 
shelves,” suggested Don¬ 
ald. 

“Oh!” breathed Polly, 
estatically; “and, Donald, 
we can take them all apart 
and pack them in a flat 
box. Isn’t that fine?” 

“ It just is.” 

Donald made the top of 
his table first. With care¬ 
ful measurements he drew 
on the smooth bristol- 
board an oblong eight and 
one-quarter inches long 
and six inches wide (Fig. 3), 


The K'^aft Shop table 




















Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


47 


which he cut out with the large shears. Within that oblong he drew another five and three-quarter inches long and three 
and one-half inches wide. This left a border one and one-quarter inches wide all around the center oblong. At the sides 
and ends of the inner oblong he drew lines for slits, as shown in Figure 3. The inside edge of each slit is on the outline of 
the oblong, and the outside edge outside of the oblong. The end slits (A A) are two and one-eighth inches long and the 
side slits (BB BB) are seven-eighths of an inch long, and extend a little beyond the end lines of the inner oblong. He cut 


2, \ -»-i c H e. 




siittr 


5 







O' 


END 


LEG, 


^ mcK 


V i c \t e *=> 





S inc Ke s 









































Making Toy 



8 


Furniture Without Glue 




BAdK 








































Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


49 


these slits with a sharp knife and made them about one-sixteenth of an inch wide, which is a little more than the thickness 
of the bristol-board. The two end supports of the table Donald made like Figure 4, which is cut from an oblong five inches 
wide and four inches high. The real end of the table, from dotted line to dotted line, is three and one-half inches wide, 
just the width of the inner oblong on the top of the table, under which it must fit. The parts to the right and left of these 
dotted lines are the table legs. The projection in the middle, at the top, is two inches long and three-eighths of an inch 
high. The projections at the ends just over the table legs are the same height. Slits are cut in these projections one-half 
an inch long, with the lower edge of each slit on a line with the top edge of the end pieces, as shown in Figure 4. 

In the middle of each end piece, two inches from the bottom, there is another slit, two and one-eighth inches long, 
for holding the shelf, and the bottom is cut in a half-circle arch. When the end pieces were completed Donald scored the 
dotted lines by lightly drawing the blade of his knife down their entire length. Then he bent the bristol-board along 
these lines so that the table legs faced the sides. 

Without the projections CC the shelf (Figure 5) is formed of an oblong exactly the size of the inner oblong on the table 
top. The projections are two inches long and a quarter of an inch wide. In these are cut slits seven-eighths of an inch long, 
and the slits are outside of the lines of the oblong, just as the slits are outside of the lines of the oblong on the table top. 

Donald put all these parts together, slipping the projections A through the slits A, the projections B through the 
slits B, and the projections C through the slits C, and was delighted to find they fit perfectly. Then he made pegs like 
Figures 6 and 7; two like Figure 6, which is three-quarters of an inch wide at the bottom, one and one-eighth inches wide 
at the top and one inch high; and four like Figure 
7, which is three-eighths of an inch wide at the bot¬ 
tom, five-eighths of an inch wide at the top and 
three-quarters of an inch high. He slid the two 
pegs (Figure 6) through the slits in the shelf, and 
the four pegs (Figure 7) through the slits in the pro¬ 
jections above the table legs, and the stanch little 
table (Figure I) was complete. He dropped it on 
the floor; it did not break. He tossed it into the 
air; its joints held firmly. Then Donald was satis¬ 
fied with his work. 

Polly made her chair in three parts, not count¬ 
ing the pegs. First she drew the two sides (Figure 
8), which are six and three-quarter inches high, and 
three inches wide from front of arm to back edge. 


1 D ^ 
























50 


Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


The rockers are five inches lon^ from end to end and one-half an inch wide. One-quarter of an inch from the back edge 
Polly drew a straight line, extending it from the top edge of the chair to the top of the rocker (Figure 8), and along this line 
she cut three slits, each slit just one inch long. The top of the first slit is half an inch from the top edge of the chair, the 

top of the second slit one inch below the first slit, and the top 
of the third slit is three-quarters of an inch below the second 
slit. Just above the rocker she cut an arch half an inch high, 
and half an inch above the arch she made a horizontal slit one 
inch long. This finished the two sides of the chair. 

For the back Polly drew an oblong six inches long and 
three inches wide. To this she added three projections on 
either side one-quarter of an inch wide. She spaced the pro¬ 
jections exactly as she did the slits in the sides of the chair, 
making them each one inch long. Then, to allow them to 
pass easily through the slits, she cut a fraction off each end of 
each projection, which left the projections seven-eighths of an 
inch long. In the two top and two bottom projections there 
are slits for the pegs half an inch long, and three-quarters of 
an inch above the bottom edge there is a horizontal slit one 
and one-half inches long (Figure 9.) 

Figure 10 shows the seat which Polly made, three inches 
square, then added three projections one-quarter of an inch 
wide. The side projections are seven-eighths of an inch long 
and the back projection one and three-eighths inches long. 
Slits five-eighths of an inch long are cut in the side projections. 
The dotted line one-half inch above the bottom edge (Fig. 10) 
shows where the seat is scored to be bent 
down in front (Figure 2.) Of the six pegs 
needed for the chair, four are three-eighths 
of an inch wid6 at the bottom, not quite 
an inch wide at the top and three-quarters 
of an inch high (Figure 11.) The other 
two pegs are half an inch wide at the 

































Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


51 


bottom, one inch wide at the top and one and one-quarter 
inches high (Figure 12.) Polly fitted the two sides of the 
chair to the back, sliding the projections on the back (II FF) 

through their corresponding 
slits (I F) in the sides, and 
fitted the seat to the back 
and sides, slipping the pro¬ 
jection D through the slit 



6HELF 




D and the projections EE through the slits EE. Then she pegged them all together, 
using the pegs (Figure 11) for the slits II FF, and the pegs (Figure 12) for the slits EE. 
When it was finished she set the chair to rocking and clapped her hands with delight to 
see how perfect it was. 

When the children made the book-shelves (Figure 16) they cut an oblong for the 
back piece six and one-quarter inches high and five inches wide (Figure 13.) On either 
side of this oblong, one-quarter of an inch from the edge, they drew straight lines from 
top to bottom; then, between these lines, they marked the position of the shelves with 
five horizontal lines one and one-half inches apart, making the first line one-quarter of an 
inch from the top edge. On either side of the back piece they made slits to hold the bolts 
on the side pieces (OO OO) (Figure 13.) The inner edge of these slits is on the side lines 
and the outer edge outside the side lines, and the slits are each three-quarters of an inch 
long. The top slits are five-eighths of an inch from the top edge and the bottom slits are 
one inch from the bottom edge of the back piece. 

Of course the side pieces had to be made exactly as high as the back piece, six and 
three-quarters inches, and the children decided that one and three-quarters inches was a 
good width, but this width does not include the bolts (OO) (Figure 15.) The bolts are 
three-eighths of an inch wide at their widest part and a trifle less than three-quarters of 
an inch long, so that they will slip easily through the slits. The necks of the bolts meas¬ 
ure three-eighths of an inch from top to bottom. 

“Look out, Polly!” exclaimed Donald, suddenly. “You are not getting those in 
the right places. The lower edge of the neck of the top bolt has to be the same distance 
from the top edge of the side piece as the lower end of the top slit is from the top edge of 
the back piece, because it rests upon it. Don’t you see?” 



































52 


Making Toy Furniture Without Glue 


“Yes, I see,” said Polly. “That will make it one and three-eighths inches from the top 
edge. And by the same token the bottom edge of the neck of the lower bolt must be just one 
inch above the bottom edge of the side piece, for the lower slit is one inch rom t e ottom 

edge of the back piece. Is that right?” 

“You’ve got it,” answered Donald. 

“That is the way it works; now draw the shelf lines across your side pieces to corres 
pond to those on the back piece, and make them exactly the same distance apart. The top 

line must be one-quarter of an inch from the top edge, remember. 

Along the shelf lines Polly made slits for holding the shelves (L, Figure 15), the lower 
edge of each slit is on the line, the upper edge of the slit above the line. Each slit is three- 
quarters of an inch long. The left-hand ends of the slits are five-eighths of an inch from the 
left edge of the side piece. 

Figure 14 is the shelf. Donald made five of these shelves. They are four and one-half 
inches longi not including the bolts, and one and three-quarter inches wide, just the width of the side pieces. The bolts 
LL are the same size as the bolts OO on the side pieces. The lower edge of the neck of each bolt is five-eighths of an 
inch from the bottom edge of the shelf. The bottom edge of Figure 14 is the front edge of the shelf when it is put up. 

When all the parts were finished the children first fitted the shelves to the side-pieces, sliding the bolts L through 
the slits L and pushing them forward until the bolts held fast and each shelf fitted the sides exactly. Then they slid the 
slits O in the back over the bolts O on the sides, pushed the sides down, the bolts slid into place and the little book-shelves 
were securely fastened together. 



































Wild Animals for the Mena a 

o 



Invented by Adelia Belle Beard 
the Authors of Things Worth Doing 


T 


^ Z i <a-2 2. c. 

The giraffe is long-necked and awkward 


53 


HE giraffe belongs to the ru-minant group of 
the—’” “Skip that, Polly. What I want is to 
know the kind of horns he has and how many 
toes. This picture doesn’t show; it’s no good for that, 
and while we are making the animals for our menagerie 
we may as well have them as nearly right as we can.” 

“To be sure, little brother. Well, here it is: ‘The 
giraffe possesses two solid, bony ap-pen-da-ges’ —that 
means horns, I suppose—‘which are completely covered 
with the skin of the forehead, and are ter-mi-na-ted by a 
tuft of bristles.’ Queer kind of horns, aren’t they, Don¬ 
ald, with bristles sprouting out of the top?” 

“That’s all right. What about his feet?” 

“Why—wait a minute. I’ve lost my place. Oh, yes: 
‘It’s feet ter-mi-nate in a divided hoof.’ There, he hasn’t 
any toes, after all; just hoofs like a cow.” 

“How big does it say he is? We want our animals 
in the right proportion to one another.” 

Polly fluttered the leaves of her book; she had been 
taking a peep at some of the other animals. “It says this: 
‘The giraffe is the tallest of existing animals, and is usually 
from fifteen to sixteen feet high.’ ” 

“That’s measuring from the ground to the top of his 
head,” commented Donald. 

























54 


Wild Animals for the Menagerie 


“ It must be,” returned Polly, “ because he slopes so you would never know where else to stop in the measurement. 

Donald worked away in silence, and Polly, with elbows on table, continued to read aloud. It s dreadfully interest 
ing, isn’t it?” she said when she had finished the description of the giraffe given in Donald s natural history, and it rea y 
would be a shame to make all the animals and not know anything about them except their names. I feel quite intimate 
and friendly with the giraffe now that I know what country he comes from and what he likes for dinner. 

“There is your friend, then,” said Donald, standing his little giraffe on the table (Figure 1.) 

The various parts of the giraffe are shown in Figure 2. They are cut from cardboard and made to be put together 
by means of the slots. You can trace the patterns and make the animals without trouble. 

The slot A of the fore legs fits into the slot A of the body, and the slot B of the hind legs fits into the slot B in the 
body. D is the pattern of the ears. The ears are to be put through the slit D in the head and then bent back, as in Fig¬ 
ure I. C is the pattern of the queer horns, the points on the ends represent the bristles. The horns are to be slipped 
through the slit C at the top of the head, and then bent in the middle to make them stand upright. 

“He is just fascinating, Donald,” exclaimed the ever enthusiastic Polly. “Don’t you think it is quite as easy to make 
wild animals as farm animals?” 




















55 


Wild Animals for the Menagerie 


Polly, you do ask a lot of questions. Go on and make the elephant now and let me read about him.” 

All right,’ said Polly, quite ready to change occupations. “Where is that picture I saved? There, that is about 
the right size, isn’t it?” 


Yes, it will do. Here we are, Donald continued, bending over his book. “‘The elephant belongs to the order of 
Proboscidea—’ ” 

Now, Donald,” Polly interrupted, “I don’t want to hear that.” “Yes you do; it means creatures with long noses, 
and the elephant has the longest nose on record.” 

“How long?” 


“It says here: ‘They are from six to eight feet long, and almost 



“Isn’t he a dear old fellow?” said Polly 


wholly composed of muscles, numbering nearly 
forty thousand.’ ” 

“Forty thousand muscles in the poor thing’s 
nose! Why, it makes me want to sneeze just to 
think of it. What else does it say?” 

But Donald was watching Polly’s scissors. 
“Don’t make the hind legs so big, Polly; they 
don’t look right.” 

“An elephant’s legs are big, Donald.” 

“Not like that. Let me trim them off for 
you. His back must slope more, too. Don’t 
you remember how most elephants look, as 
though they were just going to sit down?” 

“I think I will make the ears and tusks 
of writing paper instead of cardboard,” Polly 
ventured, “They will be easier to manage.” 

“That’s a good scheme. Have the ears large, 
for this elephant comes from Africa; and they 
can flop or stand out straight, and if you cut the 
tusks crescent shape they will turn up at the 
points.” 

“Isn’t he a dear old fellow?” said Polly, 
standing her elephant on the table beside the 
giraffe. (Figure 3.) 






















56 


Wild Animals for the M enagerie 



The different parts of the elephant 
are given in Figure 4. They are let¬ 
tered, and by putting the correspond¬ 
ing letters together the parts will fit 
perfectly. E fits E, F fits F. The 
ears G slip through the slit G, and the 
tusks H through the slit H. 

The kangaroo (Figure 5) was the 
next animal the children made, and 
they were both delighted with its ab¬ 
surdly unequal legs and immense tail, 
which takes the place of another leg. 
Polly giggled a good deal over its 
great, long feet, and persisted in call¬ 
ing its fore legs arms. 

“See how short they are, and since 
it doesn’t use them for walking, they 
must be arms,” she argued. 

“Whatever they are, we will make 
them of writing paper and hitch them 
on as we did the elephant’s tusks,” 
said Donald. 

Figure 6 gives the patterns for the 
kangaroo as Polly and Donald made 
it. They put the parts together ac¬ 
cording to the letters and bent the 
hind legs at the dotted lines for the 
feet, as shown in Figure 5. 

Figure 7 is the camel, “whose legs 
are as humpy as its back,” Polly said. 
Then she looked it up in the natural 
history and found out why it had 
























Wild Animals for the Menagerie 


57 


such peculiar legs, and also many more interesting things about this patient traveler. Figure 8 shows the various 
parts of the camel. 



Donald made the rhinoceros (Figure 9.) Polly said she 
liked either pretty or funny animals. “I think the old duf¬ 
fer is funny,” Donald returned. “See the horn on the end 
of his nose; doesn’t it look just as though it had slipped 
down his head and he had caught it there?” Figure 10 
gives all the parts of the rhinoceros. 

“The lion is a handsome fellow. You can make him, 
Polly, and I will see what I can do with the polar bear.” 

Polly made the lion (Figure 11.) 

“ He is switching his tail very angrily. Be careful not 


dLc. 2 2 , 


<Sg.c aj>^dL^ 


The children thought the kangaroo very funny 


These are the parts of the kangaroo 















S8 _ Wild Animals for the Menagerie __ 

to get too near him, Donald,” she laughed. Figure 12 gives the four parts of the lion, higure 13 is 
and Figure 14 gives his body, legs and ears. 



Ttic. oLlo^r 
e2 Z Q_ ^ e 22 <£ 3 e 


Donald’s polar bear. 


“The camel, whose legs are as humpy as its back” 

















Wild Animals for the Menagerie 




















Wild Animals (or the Menagerie 


60 


“He is a clumsy-lookin^ creature, isn’t he?” Polly remarked, “but 1 would love to see him roll up in a 
tumble about in the water just for the fun of it, as your book says he does, sometimes. 


ball and 







tS?r5- « , 




jT7VeT>7c3 

3S^2Zs. gdt Q-va^ 


Here is the funny rhinoceros Donald made 










Wild Animals for the Menagerie 



The rhinoceros takes but four parts 



















62 


Wild Animals for the Menagerie 



Polly made the lion The lion is easily made in this way 
























63 


Wild Animals for the Menagerie 



The polar bear was left for Donald 





64 


Wild Animals for the Menagerie 




The body, ears, fore and hind legs of the polar bear 













































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